Kid Turbo - Gauges

Over the past 10 years or so I've spoken with, emailed, or chatted with thousands of tuners. Everyone has got some sort of plan or vision for their ride to make it fit their style and be unique. I know from blissful experience that there's nothing like pulling into the track or show and turning some heads with a set-up like no other. There is, however, one thing that's common to everyone and it can be explained in 5 simple words: "My car is my baby". Sacrifice is a given. Most would eat Ramen noodles for a week and spend their cash and free time on some extra show points, or a few 10th's at the track... that's true love (get me a tissue).

If you're going to be a responsible "parent", there are two major areas that you'll need to pay some attention. The first is regular maintenance and tuning. This is normally a no brainer. (Don't make me report you to Child Protective Services!) Secondly is monitoring your ride's critical systems. The OEM gauge cluster is good enough for most cars on the street; their owners don't look at them anyway! Modified rides have special requirements that basic stock gauges can't satisfy. There are several companies out there that manufacturer gauges that will monitor specific engine, electrical and performance applications constantly. Most are available in either a mechanical or electronic design. They've also not forgotten to add some "style to the dial" with different colors, designs, sizes and mounting solutions to put a smile on your face. Your ride communicates to you through these monitoring devices loud and clear. They help safeguard against potentially dangerous conditions that can arise, troubleshoot issues and diagnose problems more accurately.

So the next logical question is where should you listen most. It really will depend on what level of monitoring your ride (or you) require, but there are a few critical areas that apply to all. Here's a rundown on the areas that can either help safeguard and give you a performance advantage just by bolting them in.

Oil Pressure: Every engine uses oil to lubricate the moving parts inside and reduce the heat caused by friction. It's "pushed" through the system to these areas using pressure provided by the oil pump. The pressure will be greater when the engine is working hard, and low and steady at idle. Any sign of change from the normal operating range can indicate a problem in the making. Sure, your OEM cluster has a nice little oil pressure light that will let you know when the pressure falls dangerously low, but there will be no warning. By the time you see that light, serious damage to bearings and journals may have already occurred. This can be devastating if you're at high RPM! As mods are added and performance is increased, dependency on the correct pressure becomes more of a concern. Oil pressure is one of the most critical areas to monitor and can save you a possibly engine-destroying condition.

Water Temperature:Your engine's cooling system removes the heat built up during the internal combustion process. Think of it divided into two sections. "engine water" and "radiator water". When the engine water reaches a pre-set point, the thermostat opens allowing cooled radiator water to be swapped out with the hot engine water. This process repeats continually. Water Temperature is just as critical to monitor as oil pressure is. Keeping tabs on the water temperature accurately will keep you well informed way ahead of time. You can also monitor your water temp during warm-up to be sure you're at the proper operating temperature to run hard. You'll also begin to notice your ride's operating range, monitor changes as they occur, and keep track of subtle long-term changes like a failing water pump. Your stock temp gauge is very basic and does not provide any detail except hot & cold. Overheating can cause a range of damage from a burst coolant hose, to a blown head gasket or worse! Be in the know, your ride (and your cash) will love you for it.

Voltmeter: After start-up your ride's alternator begins producing all of the power needed for proper operation on its own. This includes everything inside the car, lighting and all engine related power requirements such as the ignition. That's no small chore my friends! Adding electronics and advanced audio set-ups that draw some serious power to the mix makes monitoring voltage that much more important. Most stock gauge clusters provide a "battery light" to let you know your alternator has completely failed. From then on you're running on battery power. When that's used up, you'll stop in your tracks. Alternators don't usually go out like a light switch; they will fail steadily over time. A Voltmeter will give you the ability to not only monitor the power supply constantly, but also see changes to the draw as mods and audio components are added.

Tachometer: Ok, so most know that a tachometer reads engine RPM. OEM tachometers do exactly that, but they're typically not as accurate as they should be. It gets worse. as the engine raps out to redline, the margin for error in actual engine RPM and what's displayed on the stock tach grows. One of my readers has an Integra GSR that read 300 RPM's higher than the actual number! She was missing out on the top of the power band completely. That's where max power is realized friends! This can also cause shift points and launch points to be inaccurate. all bad! Aftermarket tachometers are manufactured for accuracy and precision movement. They draw the RPM signal directly from the cars ignition system, eliminating the chance for resistance or interference in the car's electrical system. Back to shift points for a moment. Many tachometers are available with an adjustable "shift light" that will flash you when it's time to shift. No need to keep an eye out for the optimal RPM: just keep your eyes looking forward. You can even install a shift light alone to for a "sleeper" look. However, there are few gauges that will put the fear in your opponent like a monster tach on your A-pillar, baby!

Air/Fuel (Halmeter): Adjusting your ride's air/fuel ratio is a simple way to keep it in tune to changing conditions and parts modifications. An air/fuel ratio (or A/F) gauge reacts to the amount of air present in the exhaust stream, and indicates the amounts of air and fuel in the combustion mixture. Installing an air/fuel ratio gauge will give you accurate mixture readings throughout the power band so the correct adjustments can be made. This will not only improve engine performance and power, but also keep you running safe. If you're having an issue in your fuel system and the car's running lean, the air/fuel gauge will display it, giving you a chance to get off the throttle. Setting it correctly does require an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and some tuning ability. If you've got doubts, ask around or have it professionally installed and tuned. You'll pick it up in no time.

Boost: Most factory turbo or supercharger-equipped vehicles do have some sort of boost gauge. Usually it consists of a wimpy needle and no numbers to read. Maybe a plus and minus sign just to humor you, but that's it! That's just not good enough for your baby. A boost gauge will provide you with the exact boost pressure readings, not just an approximation. They can be installed directly off the intake manifold or vacuum lines for quick, responsive boost readings that are "dead nuts on". You'll also be able to plainly see a small drop in pressure from a break in the system. If you plan on pumping up the boost manually or using a boost controller, a boost gauge is an absolute must to get the numbers correct. I've heard many stories about people that have sent their engine to the next dimension tuning in a boost controller without an accurate gauge.

EGT - (Pyrometer): Exhaust exiting your engine will reach temperatures between 700-1300 degrees Fahrenheit! It would literally melt your face off. Anyone who's touched a hot manifold has gotten a taste of how friggin' hot it is. An EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge will give you an accurate reading of the exhaust temperature as it leaves the engine. It's a regularly used gauge for turbocharged cars as a direct indicator that the engine is operating efficiently and correctly, but heavily modified supercharged and naturally aspirated cars can make good use of the readings as well. Here's the benefit: when the combustion chamber gets too hot (not enough fuel), detonation can occur and things (like pistons) start to melt!  This can be a real danger during times of extreme demand like high-gear pulls and long-duration racing. EGT gauges are also used during tuning together with adjustments to the air/fuel mixture and timing. Seeing a temperature spike into the danger zone is your indicator that either it's too much, or further tuning is needed. Knowing the threshold of how hard you can push can be the difference between driving and being towed home!

Mounting Options: So you've picked out the gauges you want to run, but what the heck do you do with them? There are a few different mounting options available to bolt them in your ride. Everything from mounting cups and panels that can be installed anywhere, to pillar mounting pods to blend in with your car's interior and provide a more streamline look. They can even be mounted in a custom dash for a completely unique design.

In Short: I can't stress enough how important it is to monitor your car's vitals. The signs and symptoms of potential problems will show up in some way, shape or form. Just listening to what your ride's telling you through your gauges will help you be more "in tune" to what's happening and when. Not only that, but they look badass and will make any potential competitor think twice. Installation rating for most is a 3; it depends on your skill level and experience. There are many more gauges available; I just wanted to get you started with the basics. Autometer, GReddy, and A'pexi have a wide selection of gauges available to accommodate any ones budget or style. Feel free to contact us, hook up with live chat, or call us TOLL FREE (888.766.0022) with any and all questions. Until next time!